In the remote reaches of Garhwal Himalayas at an altitude of 4600 mts is a celestial lake, about which only a few people have heard of, and a very few have visited this place.
This trek is very challenging and I would suggest this trek to only the seasoned trekkers and climbers. Mostly people start this trek from Pulna village, visit the lake and return back to pulna. But if you want to test the limits of your body and love the sudden gush of adrenaline in your blood then I would suggest you the full circuit trek route starting from Paika village near Joshimath and finally descend from Pulna village. Three mountain passes ( Pharnswan vinayak, Barmai pass and Kunkhul pass) are covered in this trek.
On the first day of trek, we had to start early but two members of the group arrived late. It was already noon when these two members arrived. At 12:30 we were at 'Baldura' on Badrinath highway from were our trek starts. At noon it was very hot and being first week of september it was humid too. The trail from 'Baldura' to 'Painka village' is moderate and very picturesque. One kms above the village very near to forest we halted for lunch. At around 9:00 PM we found a shelter in the middle of forest and stayed there for the night. Trek distance covered on first day was 6 kms.
Next morning it was raining heavy. After breakfast we had to wait for 2 hours to start our trek. Filled our water bottles from the stream near the shelter as there is no water source untill the next camp. The trail is picturesque but the climb is hard. The first part of the trail goes through tall grasses full of leeches. You have to be careful and be aware of leeches. Next part of the trail goes through steep slopes full of multi colored flowers. At around 5:30 pm we reached 'Sondhar' at top of the mountain. This camp provides great views of Auli and Joshimath at night. Distance covered 6 kms.
It was drizzling when we woke up next morning. We had to cover a long distance today so we began our trek after an early breakfast. Saw an Ibex enroute. Crossing the slopes full of flowers we reached our first 'pass' the 'Pharswan Vinayak'. By the time we reached 'Pharswan Vinayak' it started to rain heavily. We were all soaked in ocean of cold water. With quick steps we descended towards our next camping ground at 'Jwari khark'. But the weather conditions were not favorable and dense fog started to hinder our steps. So we decided to find a camping ground and pitch our tents. In the midst of boulders we found a camping ground. distance covered 8 kms. Jwari khark from here is 2 kms.
Next morning we woke up early and were pleased to see a clear sky. After breakfast we hurried our steps as we had to cover extra 2 kms today. Very soon we were at Jowari khark. A perfect paradise I must say. A vast grassland with a brook flowing through it. Rested for a few moments at this place to regain our energies to climb the steep mountain pass ( Barmai pass) infront of us. The climb was very steep through a steep gully. No place to rest, you have to keep on climbing. After crossing the pass we had to descend towards Barmai Khark. After walking over boulders we reached a small glacial lake named 'Bhaisuda tal'. It started to rain here. We paced our steps. Walking over bushes on steep slopes and crossing a stream we reached 'Barmai Khark'. The Kagbhusandi lake is 3 kms from here and the climb is very steep. It was very cold here, so we all adjusted in one tent. Distance covered 8 kms.
Next morning it was very cold. The ground outside the tent was covered in fresh snow. We started early today at 6 Am as we had to reach the lake early and cross the Kunkhul pass and reach bhyundar before dark. At quarter to eight we were at the lake. Stayed for half an hour near the lake. We were captivated by the serenity of this place. Next were ascended towards Kunkhul pass over the boulders. At kunkhul pass it was very windy. Then we descended over boulders for about 6 kms and reached at the base of Hathi peak. With great difficulty we crossed the river there. Reached Raj khark next where we enjoyed tea with the shepherds. We hurried towards Bhyundar but it was dark by the time we reached 'Simar toli'. It started to rain in the dark. Took out our torches and paced our steps. Crossed a few streams in the dark at late night at 11 PM we reached Bhyundar. Pitched our tents there for the night.
Next morning had breakfast at a 'dhaba' there and began our journey towards Joshimath.
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